Moreton Island 4WD: Sand Dunes, Wrecks and Dolphins

If you dream of soft sand under your tyres, dolphins at sunset and glittering shipwrecks in tropical water, Moreton Island is the close-to-Brisbane escape that delivers it all. Known as Mulgumpin to the Quandamooka people, this sand island is almost entirely national park, so the only way to explore is by four-wheel drive. That makes every beach run and inland track feel like a real adventure, with rewards at every turn: towering dunes, freshwater lakes, WWII relics, and lookout points where whales cruise past the headland.

This comprehensive guide shows you how to plan the perfect Moreton Island 4WD trip, from ferry bookings and permits to the best tracks, dune runs and snorkel spots. Whether you are building a bucket-list weekend with friends or a family holiday that blends comfort and nature, you will find everything you need to make it unforgettable.

Why Moreton Island belongs on your 4WD bucket list

• Pure sand island with no paved roads, so four-wheel drive is essential
• Easy access from Brisbane for day trips or longer adventures
• Signature experiences in one place: sandboarding, shipwreck snorkelling, wild dolphin viewing, whale watching, and beach fishing
• Mount Tempest, one of the world’s highest coastal sand dunes
• Tangalooma Wrecks, a photogenic snorkel trail teeming with fish
• Cape Moreton Lighthouse with sweeping views and a good chance of spotting turtles, sharks and migrating whales in season
• Calm western beaches perfect for family swims and sunsets, wild eastern surf beaches for scenic drives and fishing

Moreton Island strikes a rare balance: remote-feeling tracks and secluded beaches, yet close enough to Brisbane that you can make it a simple weekend. It is a paradise for first-time sand drivers and seasoned 4WDers who love empty beach horizons and unspoiled nature.

Getting there from Brisbane

Reaching Moreton Island is part of the fun. There is no bridge, so you will book a passenger ferry or a vehicle barge depending on your plans.

• Vehicle barge: The main vehicle service operates from the Port of Brisbane to the beach near the Tangalooma Wrecks. Bookings are essential, especially during school holidays and long weekends. Aim to coordinate your landing time with the tides for an easier beach drive.
• Passenger ferry: If you are staying at Tangalooma Island Resort without a vehicle, a passenger ferry departs from Holt Street Wharf in Brisbane. You can still join 4WD tours or rent a vehicle on the island.
• Alternate services: Seasonal or limited barges sometimes run to the southern township of Kooringal. Availability changes, so check current timetables and landing points when planning.

Travel time across Moreton Bay is typically around 75 to 90 minutes. Sea conditions can vary. If you are prone to motion sickness, choose a seat on the lower deck toward the middle of the vessel.

Permits, tides and essential planning

Moreton Island is a national park and recreation area. A bit of pre-trip setup guarantees a smooth, safe visit.

• Vehicle access permit: Required for all 4WDs before you drive on the island. Purchase online through Queensland Parks and Wildlife Service.
• Camping permit: Book ahead for campgrounds and beach camping zones. Sites are limited and popular during peak periods.
• Tides: Plan driving for two to three hours either side of low tide on ocean beaches. High tide pushes you into soft, rutted sand and can make some sections impassable.
• Seasonal and temporary closures: Sections of beach can close for erosion, surf conditions or shorebird protection. Check park alerts just before departure.
• Fires and stoves: Rules vary by camping area, and fire bans can apply. Carry a gas or fuel stove and only use designated fire pits where permitted.
• Pets and drones: Domestic animals are not permitted in the national park. Drone use is restricted and may require permission. Respect wildlife corridors and no-fly zones.
• Water and fuel: Potable water is limited. Carry what you need for the duration, plus a buffer. Fuel availability is limited and can be expensive. Many drivers bring sufficient fuel from the mainland and top up sparingly on the island if needed.

Insider tip: Build your entire itinerary around the tides and wind forecast. A gentle offshore breeze and a falling tide can turn an already memorable beach drive into a dream run.

4WD setup and beach driving tips

Even if you are new to sand driving, a few fundamentals will get you through with a smile.

• Tyre pressure: Drop pressures before you hit soft sand. Many drivers aim for 16 to 22 psi depending on vehicle, load and conditions. Carry a reliable gauge and a compressor.
• Gear selection: Use low-range in soft inland sections or when ascending dunes. Maintain steady momentum, avoid sudden braking and do not spin your tyres.
• Washouts and creeks: Eastern Beach features small creek crossings and occasional washouts after heavy weather. Approach slowly and cross at the ocean side where the sand is usually firmer.
• Towing and trailers: Only tow off-road rated trailers with suitable tires and brakes. Soft sand and steep exits can challenge even experienced drivers.
• Recovery gear: At minimum carry a long-handled shovel, traction boards, rated recovery points, a snatch strap with appropriate shackles, a tyre deflator and a compressor.
• Communication: A UHF radio helps when passing other vehicles or travelling in convoy. Many sand drivers monitor channels commonly used off-road. Agree on a channel and call out blind corners.
• Speed and etiquette: Observe posted speed limits on beaches and tracks. Slow down near campgrounds, pedestrians and wildlife. Give way to uphill traffic on dunes and keep off vegetated areas.
• Vehicle care: Rinse your vehicle underbody with fresh water after the trip. Salt exposure accelerates corrosion, especially after creek crossings or spray from surf.

Pro tip: Never drive on dunes or over vegetation. Tracks heal slowly on a sand island and dunes can hide nesting birds or fragile root systems.

The best Moreton Island 4WD routes

Moreton Island offers a satisfying mix of west-coast calm and east-coast drama. The routes below can be linked to form day loops that match the tide and your interests.

Western beaches and The Wrecks precinct

Landing near the Tangalooma Wrecks places you on a wide, sheltered beach with clear, shallow water. The western shoreline runs north toward Cowan Cowan and Bulwer, where you will find holiday houses, a small store and relaxed beachfront campgrounds.

Highlights:

• The Wrecks: A string of purpose-sunk ships now home to coral and thousands of fish. Snorkel or kayak along the line for an easy, spectacular marine encounter.
• Cowan Cowan: A quiet village with WWII remnants nearby and good sunset vantage points.
• Bulwer: Friendly local vibe, café and supplies, beach launching for kayaks and small boats, and access to northern tracks.

The west coast is your safe harbour when the easterly swell kicks up on Eastern Beach. It is also prime territory for sunset swims and long, lazy afternoons in the shade.

The Desert and Little Sandhills

Just inland from the west coast near Tangalooma sits The Desert, a set of open sand bowls perfect for sandboarding. Bring a waxed board or hire one from operators near the resort. The run up is a workout, the glide down is pure joy.

At the southern end of the island, the Little Sandhills and Big Sandhills rise above the bay. Drives in this area feel wonderfully remote, with sweeping views across Moreton Bay. You cannot drive on the dunes themselves, yet you can park at designated areas and walk up for panoramic photos and memorable sandboard sessions.

Safety tip: Sand heats quickly under the sun. Wear foot protection and avoid climbing during the hottest part of the day. A morning or late afternoon session is ideal.

Eastern Beach run to Cape Moreton

The island’s wild side is the east coast, a long ribbon of surf beach backed by low dunes and coastal heath. Driving here is classic Queensland beach cruising, especially around low tide.

Route overview:

• From Middle Road or Bulwer–Blue Lagoon Road, drop onto Eastern Beach.
• Head north, passing small creek crossings and pausing at scenic pullouts.
• Continue to Cape Moreton Lighthouse at the island’s northeastern tip.

Stop at Rous Battery to see WWII ruins that peek out from the dunes. Keep an eye out for seabirds and the occasional pod of dolphins slicing through the swell offshore.

At Cape Moreton, park and take the short walk up to the lighthouse. The elevated headland delivers a grandstand view over surf, reef and rock platforms. In winter you can spot humpback whales migrating, often very close to shore. Turtles, rays and sharks are common year-round.

Note: Conditions change quickly on Eastern Beach with swell and wind. If the ocean pushes high up the beach or washouts deepen, route timing matters. Do not risk it on a rising tide.

North Point, Champagne Pools and Honeymoon Bay

From Cape Moreton, a short 4WD hop brings you to North Point. This area packs a lot in a small distance.

• Champagne Pools: Natural rock pools where waves fizz into clear basins on a calm day. Great for a sit-and-soak if conditions are mild.
• Honeymoon Bay: A photogenic cove with turquoise water and a dramatic backdrop. Walk down for a quiet swim and a picnic.
• North Point camping: A favorite base for adventurers who love sunrise light, rock fishing and short scenic walks.

Sea state matters here. Only swim when conditions are calm and always watch the swell.

Blue Lagoon and surf fishing

Between the eastern beach and the island’s spine lies Blue Lagoon, a large window lake that glows like a sapphire on sunny days. The tea-tree stained water is soft on the skin and perfect for a freshwater dip after a salty beach drive.

Anglers love this section of coastline for tailor during the season, plus dart, whiting and bream. Choose gutters with clean current lines and fish an evening tide change if the weather is kind.

Remote south: Kooringal, Mirapool Lagoon and oyster country

The island’s far south feels serene and sparsely visited. Kooringal is a small community with an iconic laid-back venue and access to walking beaches with views over the sandflats of Moreton Bay. Nearby Mirapool Lagoon is a beautiful and sensitive habitat for migratory shorebirds.

Important:

• Beach access in the southern zones can be restricted for environmental protection.
• Always check current maps and signs. Detours may be in place after storms or during bird nesting seasons.

If you are seeking the feeling of getting away from it all, this is it. Plan your fuel, water and timing before making the run south, and give yourself hours of daylight to return.

Signature experiences you cannot miss

Snorkelling the Tangalooma Wrecks

Laid down in the 1960s and 70s to create a break and a fish habitat, the Tangalooma Wrecks now make one of the most accessible snorkel sites in Queensland. Expect shimmering schools of baitfish, wrasse, angelfish and the occasional wobbegong sheltering under plates. Coral has begun to colonize the hulls, attracting turtles and rays.

Tips for the best snorkel:

• Go near high tide for clearer water and less current.
• Wear fins for easier swimming against drift.
• Use a brightly colored float or buoy so boats and kayaks can see you.
• Enter from the beach and swim along the inshore side toward the outer wrecks if conditions allow.
• Check for wind and swell. West coast is usually calmer, yet currents still flow around the wrecks.

You can also explore by kayak or transparent-bottom SUP. Guided tours are available if you prefer an expert-led experience.

Sandboarding the dunes

Few simple thrills compare to sliding down a sunlit dune with the bay sparkling below. The Desert near Tangalooma is the most popular spot. Wax your board, start with a smaller slope to get your eye in, then climb higher for longer rides. The Little Sandhills also deliver big-grin descents with views that go on forever.

Bring:

• A waxed sandboard or toboggan
• Sunglasses and a buff to keep sand out of eyes and mouth
• Water, hat and reef-safe sunscreen

Avoid boards with exposed screws or sharp edges. Sit or lie down rather than standing if you are new to sandboarding.

Wild dolphin moments at Tangalooma

Each evening, a family of wild bottlenose dolphins visits the shallows at Tangalooma. The resort runs a structured feeding program with strict guidelines that limit interaction to a small, supervised treat of fish. It is an intimate, respectful experience that brings you close to these charismatic animals while supporting research and conservation.

What to know:

• You need to be a resort guest or hold a qualifying day pass or tour booking to participate.
• Spaces are limited and weather dependent.
• Follow instructions to keep dolphins safe. No flash, no touching beyond what the guide allows, and no jewelry or sunscreen on hands if feeding.

Even if you do not feed, watching from the jetty or beach as silhouettes slice through the floodlit water is a heartstring moment.

Whale watching from Cape Moreton Lighthouse

From June to October, humpback whales migrate along the Queensland coast. Cape Moreton’s elevated headland functions as a natural lookout. Bring binoculars and scan for blows, tail slaps and breaches. Some days are ocean safari magic with multiple pods moving north or south within sight.

Sunset rituals

There is a ritual to Moreton evenings. Pull up on the west coast, kick off your shoes and watch the sky shift from apricot to lilac as the sun sinks behind Brisbane’s skyline in the far distance. The Wrecks, Bulwer and Cowan Cowan all offer gentle shores with room to spread out. If you prefer a drink and a meal, island venues provide relaxed service and local seafood with that blissful holiday pace.

Suggested itineraries

Use the ideas below as building blocks. Always align your driving with the tides and be ready to swap east for west if swell and wind change.

One-day 4WD highlights loop

• Morning: Land at The Wrecks, deflate tyres, and snorkel the Tangalooma Wrecks near high tide.
• Late morning: Drive inland to The Desert for an hour of sandboarding.
• Midday picnic: Head across Middle Road to Eastern Beach. Stop for a picnic near a quiet dune with ocean views.
• Afternoon: Continue north to Cape Moreton Lighthouse for a short walk and lookout session. If time allows, detour to North Point for Champagne Pools or Honeymoon Bay.
• Late afternoon: Cross back to the west coast, re-inflate if needed, and linger for sunset at Bulwer or The Wrecks before your evening ferry.

This day blends the greatest hits without rushing, provided you plan around the tides.

Classic two-night camping escape

• Day 1: Arrive at midday. Set up camp at Ben-Ewa, Comboyuro Point, North Point or Blue Lagoon depending on your style. Swim, relax and enjoy sunset on the west side.
• Day 2: Early start for an Eastern Beach drive to Cape Moreton. Walk the headland tracks, visit North Point and soak in the Champagne Pools if calm. Swim at Blue Lagoon on the way back. Evening dolphin watch near Tangalooma.
• Day 3: Pack up, then squeeze in a final snorkel at the Wrecks or a sandboarding lap at The Desert. Ferry home in the afternoon.

Long weekend showcase

• Day 1: West coast wandering. Explore Cowan Cowan and Bulwer, then enjoy a slow afternoon snorkel or paddle around the Wrecks.
• Day 2: Eastern Beach run. Fish at dawn, then drive to Cape Moreton and North Point. Blue Lagoon swim before returning via Middle Road.
• Day 3: Southern adventure. Head to the Little Sandhills and on toward Kooringal if conditions allow. Linger over fresh seafood for lunch, then loop back for a final sunset.

This plan gives you a taste of each corner of the island, with time to follow your curiosity.

Where to stay: camping and resorts

Moreton Island offers everything from simple beach campsites to resort comforts. Book early for school holidays.

• Tangalooma Island Resort: Ideal if you want guided activities, restaurants, a pool and the dolphin program. You can join 4WD tours or rent equipment without bringing a vehicle.
• Campgrounds: The Wrecks (walk-in only), Ben-Ewa and Comboyuro Point near Bulwer, North Point near the headland, and Blue Lagoon on the eastern side are well loved. Facilities vary from basic toilets to more developed amenities. Sites are generally unpowered.
• Beach camping zones: Designated stretches along the coast where you pick a spot behind the dune line. Expect no facilities. Bring a portable toilet where required and practice strict leave-no-trace principles.
• Holiday houses and cabins: Limited options in Bulwer and other small settlements suit families or groups who want a roof and a kitchen but still crave that island pace.

Ask yourself how adventurous you want to feel. If you love stargazing and surf noise, a beachfront camp will make your soul sing. If you prefer a hot shower and a cocktail at sunset, the resort will feel like a treat.

What to pack for a Moreton Island 4WD trip

Think self-sufficiency, smart sun protection and recovery readiness.

4WD and campsite essentials:

• Tyre deflator and compressor
• Long-handled shovel, traction boards, rated snatch strap and shackles
• UHF radio, jump starter and basic tool kit
• First aid kit, headlamps and spare batteries
• Drinking water supply, plus extra for rinsing and cooking
• Gas or fuel stove, cooking kit and rubbish bags for all waste
• Shade shelter or awning with sturdy sand pegs
• Paper maps or offline GPS, plus printed tide times
• Insect repellent, reef-safe sunscreen, hats and sun shirts

Activity gear:

• Snorkel set with fins, buoyant vest and bright float
• Sandboard or toboggan with wax
• Light wetsuit or thermal rash top if visiting outside summer
• Fishing rod and tackle if you plan to wet a line

Consider packing a compact 12-volt fridge or icebox to keep food fresh in the heat, and a soft broom to sweep sand out of the vehicle daily.

Responsible travel on Mulgumpin

Moreton Island’s beauty is fragile. Respecting the environment and Traditional Owners enhances your trip and protects the island for future visitors.

• Stay on existing tracks and keep off vegetated dunes
• Give wildlife plenty of space and do not feed any animals
• Pack out everything you bring in, including food scraps and fishing line
• Use toilets where provided or carry a portable toilet where required
• Keep noise down at night so everyone can enjoy the sound of the ocean
• Be mindful around cultural sites and follow park signage
• Learn a little about the Quandamooka people and their deep connection to Mulgumpin

Small choices add up. If every visitor leaves the island a little better than they found it, Moreton’s magic will endure.

Frequently asked questions

How hard is the driving on Moreton Island?

• Difficulty ranges from easy to moderate. Western beach runs are generally straightforward in good conditions. Eastern Beach and inland tracks can be soft and rutted, especially near high tide or after rain. With correct tyre pressures, patient driving and the right gear, most confident beginners manage well.

Can I visit on a day trip?

• Yes. A well-planned day can include snorkelling the Wrecks, a quick dune session at The Desert and a lighthouse visit. The key is timing. Book an early ferry in and a late ferry out, and build your route around the tide chart.

Are there shops and fuel on the island?

• There are limited supplies in small settlements, and fuel availability can be limited and expensive. Bring what you need for meals, water and diesel or petrol. Treat island stores as helpful top-ups rather than a primary resupply.

What is the best time of year to go?

• Moreton is a year-round destination. Summer brings warm water and long days for snorkelling. Winter offers mild air, clear visibility for the Wrecks and humpback whales off Cape Moreton. School holidays are busy, so book early if you prefer those periods.

What about mobile coverage and power?

• Coverage is patchy and network dependent. Telstra often has better reach, especially near the west coast and headlands. Bring power banks or a dual-battery setup if camping, since sites are unpowered.

Is it safe to swim?

• The west coast is generally calm and family friendly. The east coast has surf, rips and variable conditions. Always assess the ocean before swimming, avoid rock areas if swell is up and never swim alone. Snorkel the Wrecks when wind and tide suit.

Practical trip builder: step by step

1. Choose dates and check tides. Favor days with low tides in the morning if you plan an east-coast run.
2. Book your vehicle barge or passenger ferry, plus accommodation or camping permits.
3. Service your vehicle, pack recovery gear and plan fuel and water needs.
4. Save offline maps, park alerts and a weather forecast. Add a printed tide table.
5. On arrival, deflate tyres on the beach before you hit soft sand. Drive gently and enjoy the pace of island time.
6. Rinse the vehicle underbody with fresh water at trip’s end and clean gear to prevent rust and spread of seeds.

A sample east versus west decision tree

• Easterly wind and solid swell: Focus on west-coast activities. Snorkel the Wrecks, sandboard The Desert, explore Cowan Cowan and Bulwer, and save Eastern Beach for another day.
• Light winds and a lunchtime low tide: Run the east coast to Blue Lagoon and up to Cape Moreton. Picnic with views, then cross back to the west for sunset.
• Southerly change with showers: Consider sheltered interior options like Mount Tempest for a hike with big rewards if the track is open, or shorter lookouts near the lighthouse between squalls.

Flexibility is your secret weapon. Moreton always offers something wonderful, no matter the forecast.

A note on iconic hikes: Mount Tempest and lighthouse walks

While this guide focuses on 4WD routes, do not miss the island’s short walks. Mount Tempest rises to around 280 meters and is widely cited as one of the highest coastal sand dunes on Earth. The summit track is a heart-pumping climb with spectacular 360-degree views over ocean, bay and the island’s interior. At Cape Moreton, easy paths link the lighthouse precinct to lookouts that catch sea breeze and pelagic birdlife.

Bring water, a hat and sturdy footwear. Start early in summer to beat the heat and enjoy soft morning light.

Travel smarter: common mistakes to avoid

• Ignoring the tide table and getting trapped by a rising tide at a headland or washout
• Driving on firm-looking sand that is hiding a coffee rock shelf or soft patch near the waterline
• Over-inflated tyres that dig in and overheat your vehicle
• Arriving late without permits or a campsite booked during peak season
• Leaving food unsecured at camp, which attracts goannas and bush turkeys
• Snorkelling the Wrecks in strong wind or out of the recommended tide window
• Parking on vegetated areas or too close to beach access points

Correct one or two of these and your trip becomes many times easier and more enjoyable.

Ready to feel the sand under your tyres?

Moreton Island blends everything we love about Queensland outdoors. One day you are drifting over shipwrecks among clouds of fish. The next you are gliding down a sunlit dune, then scanning from a lighthouse as whales roll by. Evenings bring dolphins, soft light on calm water and a sky that seems bigger than usual.

With a bit of planning and a sense of adventure, your Moreton Island 4WD escape will feel effortless and wildly rewarding. Book your barge, lock in those permits, pack the sandboard and snorkel, and point the bonnet toward the bay. Sand dunes, wrecks and dolphins are waiting, and they are closer than you think.