Kakadu Highlights: Ubirr, Nourlangie and Yellow Water

Kakadu National Park is one of those rare places that can change how you see the world. Vast and ancient, it is a living cultural landscape where rock art tells stories layered over 20,000 years, and wetlands brim with life as far as the eye can see. If you are planning your first visit, or returning to dive deeper, three highlights capture the essence of Kakadu’s soul: Ubirr, Nourlangie, and Yellow Water.

This guide walks you through each of these iconic sites with practical advice, insider tips, and evocative reasons to go now. Think spectacular sunsets from sandstone escarpments, crocodiles gliding through mirrored billabongs, and galleries of Aboriginal rock art that illuminate one of the world’s longest continuing cultures. Whether you have a day, a weekend, or a week, you will find inspiration here to shape a trip you will remember for life.

Why Kakadu belongs on your bucket list

Kakadu National Park sits in Australia’s Top End, roughly a 3 hour drive from Darwin along the Arnhem Highway. It is a dual World Heritage site for both natural and cultural values. That means two compelling reasons to visit rolled into one destination: biodiversity-rich wetlands, monsoon forests, and stone country, plus rock art and cultural sites maintained and shared by Bininj and Mungguy Traditional Owners.

Ubirr, Nourlangie, and Yellow Water make an ideal trio for a first-time itinerary because they show off different faces of Kakadu:

• Ubirr for sunset views from Nadab Lookout and some of the park’s most accessible rock art
• Nourlangie, also known by its Aboriginal name Burrungkuy, for a journey through rock art and the dramatic stone country
• Yellow Water Billabong for world-class wildlife watching by boat, particularly at sunrise and sunset

These are the experiences that make travelers fall in love with Kakadu. They are also easy to link together, with good visitor facilities, clear signage, and the option to join guided activities that deepen your understanding of country and culture.

Understanding Kakadu’s seasons and the best time to go

Kakadu is not a place with simple wet and dry. The Traditional Owners recognise six distinct seasons, each with its own moods and movements of animals, plants, and people. Knowing the seasons helps you choose the right time for the experiences you want most.

• Gudjewg, January to March: Monsoon rains fill the wetlands. Country is lush, waterfalls roar, some roads close. Yellow Water is spectacular for birdlife and stormy skies, but many walks may be restricted.
• Banggerreng, April: Known as the knock em down storms. Grasses are flattened by wind, water begins to clear. This is transition time, with fewer crowds and dramatic skies.
• Yegge, May to mid June: Cooler weather, lower humidity, ideal walking conditions. Access to Ubirr and Burrungkuy is usually excellent. Photography is superb.
• Wurrgeng, mid June to August: Dry season peak, clear blue skies and cool nights. All roads are usually open, wildlife congregates at remaining water, and crowds are at their highest. Book cruises and accommodation early.
• Gurrung, late August to October: Hot and dry. Smoke from early dry burns can add atmosphere to sunsets. Wildlife viewing intensifies around billabongs, but walking can be hot. Start early or late in the day.
• Gunumeleng, October to December: Pre-monsoon build up. Electric storms, rising humidity. Some access can be weather dependent, but the atmosphere is incredible.

In short:

• Best for walking and rock art: Yegge and Wurrgeng
• Best for dramatic skies and fewer people: Banggerreng and Gunumeleng
• Best for birdlife: All seasons are good, but Yellow Water shines in Wurrgeng and Gurrung when wildlife concentrates around water

Always check the latest conditions with the Bowali Visitor Centre in Jabiru, and purchase your Kakadu Park Pass online before arrival.

Ubirr: Rock art riches and the iconic Nadab Lookout

Ubirr is one of Kakadu’s most beloved sites. It combines accessible rock art galleries with a short climb to a vast sandstone escarpment where the world opens in every direction. Sunset from Nadab Lookout is a rite of passage for many visitors, and with good reason.

Getting there and practical logistics

• Location: Northeast Kakadu, about 40 minutes from Jabiru via the Arnhem Highway and Ubirr Road
• Vehicle access: Sealed road to the car park in the dry season. In the wet season access may close due to Magela Creek levels. Check conditions
• Facilities: Toilets, shaded picnic tables, clear walking tracks. No food or fuel on site
• Nearby: Border Store area and East Alligator River, where you can join the Guluyambi Cultural Cruise to learn about country from Aboriginal guides

Arrive at least 90 minutes before sunset to see the art in good light before climbing to Nadab. In the peak dry season parking fills fast, so give yourself a buffer.

The Ubirr rock art walk

Ubirr has a loop that is roughly one kilometer return to the upper rocks, with short spurs to major galleries. The path is well formed. Allow at least one hour, more if you enjoy photography or listening to ranger talks.

Highlights include:

• Main Gallery: Classic X-ray style paintings of barramundi, long-necked turtles, and freshwater fish, with fine details of bones and organs
• Mimi spirits: Delicate, elongated figures representing beings who taught people how to hunt, cook, and paint
• Cultural scenes: Contact era art that shows a thylacine, and later depictions including a European in boots. These layers show a living art tradition that records change
• Ginga, the saltwater crocodile: Look for powerful images that speak to the enduring presence of crocodiles in Kakadu

Do not touch the art or the rock. Oils from hands can damage pigment. Respect all signage, and follow the guidance of Traditional Owners.

Nadab Lookout: A sunset you will never forget

From the top of Ubirr the horizon stretches over the Nadab floodplain and across to Arnhem Land escarpments. In the late afternoon, the light turns the paperbark forests and wetlands gold. Whistling kites circle. Families find a spot on the warm sandstone to watch day give way to twilight.

Tips for the best experience:

• Arrive early for a good position and time to soak up the scene
• Carry water, a hat, and a light jacket for after sunset
• Watch your footing near edges, and supervise children
• Keep noise down to respect the quiet of the place and those sharing it

If you prefer fewer people, visit at sunrise or mid morning. The view is still exceptional, and you may have the escarpment almost to yourself.

Culture and guided experiences around Ubirr

• Ranger talks: In the dry season, Parks Australia rangers often host free talks that bring the art and stories to life. Check schedules at Bowali Visitor Centre
• Guluyambi Cultural Cruise: Departing nearby on the East Alligator River, this intimate cruise is led by Aboriginal guides who share insight into land management, bush foods, and cultural protocols. You also see crocodiles and river birdlife in a peaceful setting
• Cahills Crossing viewing: The tidal crossing into Arnhem Land is famous for saltwater crocodile activity. It is a fascinating viewpoint, but stay behind barriers and keep a safe distance

Photography tips at Ubirr

• Art galleries: Use a wide-angle lens for context, a standard lens for details. Avoid flash
• Sunset: A gradient filter or bracketing helps manage contrast. A lightweight tripod is handy, but be mindful of space around others
• Composition: Include foreground sandstone or the silhouette of a rock fig for depth

Safety and respect

• Stay on marked tracks, avoid cliff edges
• Bring plenty of water, especially in hot months
• Follow cultural protocols. Some areas may close for cultural reasons. Respect closures without question
• Never swim in waterways in the region, crocodiles are present

Nourlangie, also known as Burrungkuy: Stone country, art, and big views

Nourlangie, known by its Aboriginal name Burrungkuy, is a vast sandstone monolith and a long-lived living place. Here you can walk through shaded galleries like Anbangbang, gaze over the savanna plains and escarpment from lookouts, and, if you are keen, challenge yourself on a longer circuit over rugged stone country.

Why Burrungkuy matters

Art at Burrungkuy is layered with memory. Here you can see examples of dynamic repainting through time, contact-era pieces that depict sailing ships and Europeans, and important spiritual figures. This is also a place where you can feel the power of Kakadu’s stone country, with sheer walls, weathered domes, and deep shade below rock shelters that kept people safe through seasons.

Key stops around Burrungkuy

• Burrungkuy Main Art Walk: A 1.5 kilometer circuit that winds past Anbangbang Gallery, where you can see lightning spirit figures and X-ray style animals. Interpretive panels explain the meanings and context of the art
• Gun-warddehwardde Lookout: A short side track from the art walk leads to a panoramic viewpoint across savanna woodlands to the Arnhem Land escarpment. Light is beautiful in the late afternoon
• Anbangbang Billabong: A gentle loop around a waterhole that reflects the stone walls of Burrungkuy. Birdlife is abundant, and photography opportunities are superb, especially early and late
• Nanguluwurr Gallery: A separate walk of about 3.4 kilometers return off the Burrungkuy access road. This lesser known site includes contact-era images like a sailing ship, plus elegant figures in a quiet, contemplative setting
• Nawurlandja Lookout: Close to Burrungkuy but signposted separately, this short, steep walk climbs a sloping rock to a wide view over Anbangbang Billabong and the escarpment. Sunset here is less crowded than Ubirr and equally photogenic

Best times and practical tips

• Timing: Early morning is cool and peaceful for the art walk and Anbangbang Billabong. Late afternoon is prime for Gun-warddehwardde and Nawurlandja
• Footwear: Wear sturdy shoes with grip. The rock can be smooth underfoot
• Heat: Carry water and a hat, and rest in the shade of rock shelters
• Wildlife: You may spot wallabies, frilled-neck lizards, rainbow bee-eaters, and the occasional dingo

Barrk Sandstone Walk for keen hikers

If you are after a longer, more challenging adventure, the Barrk Sandstone Walk is a 12 kilometer circuit that traverses rugged stone country above Burrungkuy. It is exposed, steep in places, and should be tackled only in the coolest months by fit walkers with ample water and navigation confidence. The payoff is solitude, sweeping views, and a deeper appreciation of this ancient landscape.

Ranger talks and cultural context

Look out for ranger-led activities at Burrungkuy in the dry season. These sessions are invaluable for understanding the stories behind the art, the importance of certain figures, and the right ways to behave around sacred places. Remember that Traditional Owners share access to these sites with great generosity. Treat them as living places, not museums.

Yellow Water Billabong: Wildlife, wetlands, and mirrored dawns

If Ubirr and Burrungkuy connect you to Kakadu’s deep time, Yellow Water Billabong connects you to its pulsing life. This vast wetland near Cooinda is one of Australia’s finest wildlife habitats. The best way to experience it is on a guided boat cruise that glides across glassy water as the sky fires up with color. Expect crocodiles, sea eagles, jacanas stepping across lily pads, and hundreds of other birds.

Where it is and how to visit

• Location: Near Cooinda, in central Kakadu. About a 1 hour drive from Jabiru, and 3 hours from Darwin
• Access: Cruises depart from the Yellow Water jetty. In the wet season, access to the jetty can change with water levels, but cruises usually adapt departure points
• Operator: Yellow Water Cruises runs a regular schedule year round. Sunrise and sunset departures are the most popular

It is wise to book ahead in the dry season, especially for the golden hours.

What you will see

On a typical 90 minute cruise you may encounter:

• Saltwater crocodiles, often basking with jaws open, or gliding effortlessly under the surface
• Black-necked storks, known as jabiru in the local vernacular, hunting in the shallows
• Magpie geese, whistling ducks, egrets, spoonbills, darters, and kingfishers in abundance
• White-bellied sea eagles perched on snags, surveying their realm
• Water lilies and lotus flowers painting the water with pinks and whites
• Paperbark forests and floodplains alive with movement and sound

Guides are skilled at spotting wildlife and explaining the intricacies of the wetland. They also share cultural knowledge about seasons, bush foods, and the way Bininj and Mungguy people live with country.

Sunrise versus sunset

• Sunrise: Silky light, mist lifting off the water, birds on the move to feed, often cooler and calmer
• Sunset: Warm tones, dramatic reflections, golden hour glow, more chance of backlit silhouettes of crocodiles and herons

If you can, do both. Each offers a different rhythm and palette.

Photography tips for Yellow Water

• Lenses: A 70 to 200 mm or 100 to 400 mm lens is ideal for wildlife, plus a wide lens for landscapes
• Shutter speed: Keep it high to freeze birds in flight, and stabilize with elbows on the boat rail
• Composition: Use reflections, lily pads, and overhanging paperbarks as frames
• Etiquette: Move quietly, share rail space, and avoid blocking others

Safety and comfort

• Do not reach over the boat or dangle arms near the water
• Use insect repellent and wear light, long sleeves at dawn and dusk
• Bring water and sun protection, even on late afternoon cruises
• Follow crew instructions at all times

How to link Ubirr, Nourlangie, and Yellow Water in one trip

The good news is that these sites sit on an arc through the park that makes logical sense for a one, two, or three night visit. Here are sample itineraries to help you plan.

One day express from Darwin

This is a big day, but possible if you are short on time and willing to start early.

• Pre-dawn: Depart Darwin on the Arnhem Highway with a packed breakfast
• Morning: Stop at Bowali Visitor Centre near Jabiru to pick up maps, check conditions, and learn about the latest ranger talks
• Late morning: Visit Burrungkuy for the main art walk and Gun-warddehwardde Lookout
• Early afternoon: Drive to Cooinda for a late lunch
• Late afternoon: Join a Yellow Water sunset cruise
• Evening: Decide whether to overnight at Cooinda or Jabiru, or drive back to Darwin if you prefer a late return

Pro tip: Consider a guided day tour if you want to relax and let someone else handle the logistics.

Two days focused on the highlights

Day 1

• Morning: Darwin to Jabiru, stop at Bowali, continue to Ubirr
• Midday: Walk the Ubirr galleries and relax in the shade
• Sunset: Climb to Nadab Lookout for sunset
• Overnight: Jabiru or Anbinik or the Mercure Crocodile Hotel

Day 2

• Sunrise: Drive to Cooinda for a Yellow Water dawn cruise
• Late morning: Breakfast at Cooinda, then head to Burrungkuy for the art walk and Anbangbang Billabong
• Afternoon: Climb Nawurlandja Lookout for views
• Return: Overnight in Kakadu or begin the drive back to Darwin

Three to four days for a deeper dive

Day 1

• Darwin to Cooinda, settle in, Yellow Water sunset cruise

Day 2

• Early: Yellow Water sunrise if you want both perspectives
• Midday: Relax by the pool or visit Warradjan Cultural Centre for exhibits on Bininj culture
• Afternoon: Burrungkuy main art walk and Anbangbang Billabong
• Sunset: Nawurlandja Lookout

Day 3

• Morning: Ubirr and Nadab Lookout
• Midday: Guluyambi Cultural Cruise on the East Alligator River or time at Bowali Visitor Centre
• Afternoon: Optional visit to Nanguluwurr Gallery for a quieter art walk
• Sunset: Second visit to Ubirr or a calm picnic near Anbangbang Billabong

Day 4

• Optional: Tackle part of the Barrk Sandstone Walk if fit and conditions are right
• Depart for Darwin with a lunch stop at South Alligator

This pacing gives you time to absorb the place, not just tick boxes.

Where to stay and eat

Kakadu offers a range of accommodation, from comfortable lodges to campgrounds under the stars. Book early in the dry season.

• Cooinda: Cooinda Lodge with hotel rooms and a popular campground, close to Yellow Water. On-site dining and bar, fuel available
• Jabiru: Mercure Crocodile Hotel with a distinctive crocodile design, plus cabins and villas at Anbinik. Cafes and a small supermarket in town
• Campgrounds: Mardugal near Cooinda, Muirella Park near Burrungkuy, and other Parks Australia-managed sites. Facilities vary from basic to well equipped
• South Alligator: Aurora Kakadu is a useful stop with rooms, fuel, and a bar and bistro

Eating well in the bush is part of the fun. Most lodges have restaurants, and picnic spots abound. Carry snacks, fruit, and plenty of drinking water. Do not feed wildlife.

Practical tips, safety, and responsible travel

A smooth trip to Kakadu starts with a few simple steps.

• Park pass: Buy your Kakadu National Park Pass online before you arrive. Keep a copy handy
• Start early: Beat the heat by walking in the morning and late afternoon. Siesta at midday
• Hydration: Carry more water than you think you will need. Electrolyte tabs help on hot days
• Clothing: Lightweight long sleeves, a broad-brimmed hat, sunglasses, and sturdy shoes
• Insects and sun: Use repellent at dawn and dusk, apply sunscreen often
• Crocodile safety: Never swim in creeks or billabongs unless a sign clearly says it is safe. Obey all warnings. At boat ramps and edges, keep well back
• Track etiquette: Stay on formed paths, do not touch rock art, and avoid loud music or drones. Drones are restricted in many areas and require permission
• Cultural respect: You are on Aboriginal land. Some areas may close for cultural reasons. Always respect signage and directions. Ask permission before photographing people
• Rubbish and waste: Leave no trace. Use bins in major sites or carry out your rubbish
• Connectivity: Mobile reception is limited. Download maps and info ahead of time. Let someone know your plans if going on longer walks
• Fuel and supplies: Top up in Jabiru, South Alligator, or Cooinda. Carry a spare tyre, water, and basic tools if you are exploring further afield
• Road conditions: Most key sites are accessible by 2WD in the dry season on sealed roads. In the wet or on side tracks, conditions can change quickly. Check the Northern Territory road report and speak with rangers

Choosing between Ubirr, Burrungkuy, and Yellow Water

You should see all three if you can. If time is tight, match your interests to each site.

• Best for sunset views: Ubirr’s Nadab Lookout, with Nawurlandja as a quieter alternative
• Best for rock art variety: Burrungkuy’s Anbangbang and Nanguluwurr galleries
• Best for wildlife: Yellow Water, especially at sunrise or sunset
• Best for families with kids: Ubirr and Burrungkuy main art walks are short, shaded, and full of stories. Yellow Water’s boats are comfortable and safe
• Best for photographers: All three, but plan for golden hours and bring spare batteries
• Best for deeper cultural insight: Ranger talks and the Guluyambi Cultural Cruise, plus Warradjan Cultural Centre near Cooinda

Frequently asked questions

Do I need a 4WD to visit Ubirr, Burrungkuy, and Yellow Water?

In the dry season, no. These highlights are accessible by 2WD on sealed roads. In the wet season access can change, so always check conditions.

How long should I allow at each site?

• Ubirr: 1.5 to 2 hours, plus extra if you stay for sunset
• Burrungkuy: 2 to 3 hours for the art walk, Anbangbang Billabong, and a lookout
• Yellow Water: 90 minutes for a cruise, plus time for meals and photos

Is it safe to visit with children?

Yes, with common sense. Keep kids near you, ensure they understand crocodile safety, and avoid cliff edges. Walks at Ubirr and Burrungkuy are suitable for most families.

Can I swim in Kakadu?

Only where signs clearly say it is safe, and never in rivers or billabongs where crocodiles may be present. Around these highlights, plan on no swimming. Cool off in your accommodation’s pool.

When should I book cruises and accommodation?

In the dry season, book as early as possible, particularly for sunrise and sunset Yellow Water cruises and popular lodges. In shoulder seasons you may find more flexibility.

Can I visit on a guided tour?

Yes. Many Darwin-based operators offer day and overnight tours that include Ubirr or Burrungkuy and Yellow Water. A guided experience is excellent for first-time visitors.

A note on language and acknowledgement

Kakadu is Aboriginal land. The people of Kakadu are known as Bininj in the north and Mungguy in the south. The names Burrungkuy, Nawurlandja, and Gun-warddehwardde reflect the languages of this country. When you visit, you are entering a place where stories live in stone and the land itself is family. Travel with care.

Suggested packing list

• Refillable water bottles and electrolytes
• Lightweight long sleeves, hat, and sunglasses
• Comfortable walking shoes with grip
• Insect repellent and sunscreen
• Camera or smartphone, spare batteries, lens cloth
• Binoculars for birdwatching
• Small daypack and a light rain jacket in shoulder seasons
• Snacks and a reusable coffee cup
• Headlamp or small torch for post-sunset walks back to the car
• Printed booking confirmations in case reception drops out

The sales pitch you can believe in

Not every destination lives up to its legend. Kakadu does. At Ubirr you can stand where people have watched seasons turn for millennia, and feel the same light warming the same rock. At Burrungkuy you can look into art that carries meaning across centuries. At Yellow Water you can drift through a cathedral of sky and water while a sea eagle patrols above and a crocodile leaves a perfect V in the lilies.

This is not a place you rush. It is a place you meet. The more attention you give it, the more it will give you in return.

Conclusion: Make the trip, make it count

Kakadu’s highlights are not just photogenic stops. They are pathways into living culture, abundant nature, and a landscape that humbles and restores. If you have dreamed of Australia’s Top End, this is your moment. Book that Yellow Water cruise at sunrise. Time your walk at Ubirr so you arrive at Nadab Lookout as the plains exhale into evening. Wander the art galleries at Burrungkuy slowly, reading the panels and listening for ranger voices that carry the stories further.

Buy your park pass, pack your hat, and head east from Darwin. In a few hours you will be under that big Kakadu sky, on country where everything is connected. Ubirr, Nourlangie, and Yellow Water are the perfect trio to start a lifelong love affair with the Top End. When you leave, you will know you have stood in a place that matters, and you will carry a little of Kakadu’s light with you wherever you go.