Crossing the Nullarbor: How to Plan the Epic Drive

There is a road in Australia that feels like a rite of passage. Sun-seared horizons seem to go on forever, ocean-sculpted cliffs drop into a pewter sea, and each sunrise paints the sky with a fresh palette. Crossing the Nullarbor is not just a drive. It is an adventure that rewards good planning, an eye for wide-open beauty, and a taste for genuine outback hospitality. If you are dreaming of the iconic Eyre Highway journey between Western Australia and South Australia, this guide will help you plan it like a pro and enjoy every kilometre.

Whether you start in Perth or Adelaide, a Nullarbor road trip delivers bucket-list highlights: the 90 Mile Straight, the Bunda Cliffs along the Great Australian Bight, whale watching at Head of Bight in season, stargazing without city glare, and the uniquely Aussie experience of roadhouse life. Here is how to choose the best time to go, craft an itinerary, fuel up without stress, stay safe, and squeeze every drop of magic from this legendary route.

Why the Nullarbor Road Trip Belongs on Your Bucket List

The Nullarbor Plain is the world’s largest limestone karst landscape. Its Latin name means no trees, though you will still see low bluebush and mallee scrub along parts of the route. What you will feel most is space. The Eyre Highway slices through this big-sky country and connects two states across one of Australia’s great frontiers.

What makes the drive unforgettable:

• The Great Australian Bight: Stand on the Bunda Cliffs and watch the Southern Ocean pound sheer limestone walls.
• Whale season: From June to October, see southern right whales and calves from the Head of Bight boardwalks.
• The 90 Mile Straight: Australia’s longest straight stretch of road between Balladonia and Caiguna.
• Outback nights: Milky Way brilliance, crisp winter stars, and sometimes the soft howl of wind across the plain.
• Quirky stops: The Nullarbor Links golf course, the Balladonia Skylab display, Penong’s windmill museum, and roadhouse photo ops.
• History and ruins: The old Eucla Telegraph Station half-buried by sand dunes is a classic Nullarbor scene.

Myths and realities:

• The highway is sealed the whole way between Norseman and Ceduna.
• You do not need a 4WD for the highway itself, though some side tracks and detours require high clearance and experience.
• Food, fuel, and accommodation are available at roadhouses, typically spaced 150 to 200 kilometres apart. It is still remote, so plan as if you are a long way from help.

Quick Facts and Trip Snapshot

• The Nullarbor stretch: Norseman to Ceduna is roughly 1,200 kilometres.
• Perth to Adelaide distance: About 2,700 kilometres via Norseman and the Eyre Highway.
• Typical driving time: A focused crossing takes 2 to 3 days. A relaxed trip with sightseeing takes 4 to 7 days.
• Best time to cross: April to October for milder temperatures. Whale watching peaks June to October.
• Vehicles: Two-wheel drive is fine for the highway. Caravans and camper trailers are common.
• Fuel: Unleaded and diesel are widely available at roadhouses. LPG is limited. Carry extra if your range is short.
• Time zones: Western Australia time in the west, South Australia time in the east. Some roadhouses use Central Western Time. Confirm opening hours locally.
• Phone coverage: Patchy. Telstra usually gives the best chance of reception at roadhouses and some high points.
• Indigenous lands: Respect local culture and sites. Seek permits for off-highway access where required.
• Quarantine: Strict biosecurity at both borders. Fresh fruit, some vegetables, honey, plants, and soil may be prohibited. Dispose of restricted items at official stations.

When to Go: Seasons, Weather and Wildlife

Choosing the right season can elevate your Nullarbor experience from good to extraordinary.

• Summer, December to February: Hot and windy with daytime highs often above 35°C. Air conditioning is working overtime, vehicles and caravans are under strain, and flies are enthusiastic. If you must drive in summer, plan early starts and long lunch breaks to avoid the worst heat.
• Autumn, March to May: Cooler days, crisp nights, and clearer visibility. Excellent for photography and comfortable camping.
• Winter, June to August: Cold nights and occasional rain. Whale season begins in June. Pack warm layers and be mindful of shorter daylight.
• Spring, September to November: Wildflowers on the fringes, whale season tapers in October. It is a sweet spot for road trippers.

Wildlife and nature highlights:

• Southern right whales: Best viewing June to October at Head of Bight. Humpbacks are sometimes seen offshore.
• Birds: Raptors soaring on thermals, galahs and cockatoos across the plain, and shore birds near coastal cliffs.
• Night skies: The Milky Way is astonishing under clear skies. Consider timing your stargazing around the new moon.

Route Overview and Itineraries

You can cross the Nullarbor in either direction. Eastbound drivers usually say the Bunda Cliffs feel more dramatic as the ocean views open up after the border. Westbound drivers hit the 90 Mile Straight earlier. Both directions deliver everything you came for.

Classic West to East: Perth to Adelaide

• Perth to Esperance via Albany Highway or the Wheatbelt: 700 to 800 kilometres depending on your route. Esperance offers world-class beaches at Cape Le Grand National Park, including Lucky Bay.
• Esperance to Norseman: About 200 kilometres.
• Norseman to Ceduna via the Eyre Highway: About 1,200 kilometres.
• Ceduna to Adelaide: Around 780 kilometres.

Alternatively, head from Perth to Kalgoorlie and then to Norseman. Kalgoorlie adds goldfields history and the start of the Nullarbor Links golf course.

The Heart of the Nullarbor: Norseman to Ceduna Highlights

Key stops along the Eyre Highway, west to east:

• Balladonia: Home to a Skylab display that tells the story of the space station debris that fell nearby in 1979. Good fuel and a classic roadhouse vibe.
• 90 Mile Straight sign: Between Balladonia and Caiguna. Mandatory photo stop for proof of pilgrimage.
• Caiguna Blowhole: Natural limestone vents that breathe with changes in air pressure. Short detour from the highway.
• Cocklebiddy area: Famous among cave divers for vast cave systems. Do not enter caves unless you are with an authorised expedition.
• Madura Pass Lookout: A sweeping view over the Roe Plains that is worth the stop.
• Mundrabilla: One of the more budget-friendly fuel spots, often with a friendly chat at the counter.
• Eucla: Coastal views, dunes, and the photogenic ruins of the Eucla Telegraph Station. A favourite sunset spot.
• Border Village: You have reached the WA-SA border. Photo with the iconic road sign and your first (or last) taste of another time zone.
• Bunda Cliffs lookouts: Several signed coastal viewpoints in South Australia offer dramatic cliff vistas. Keep back from edges and supervise children.
• Head of Bight: Managed whale watching centre with boardwalks and viewing platforms. Outstanding in season.
• Nullarbor Roadhouse: A classic stop with fuel, food, accommodation, and a friendly welcome.
• Penong: Famous for its windmill museum and as a gateway to Lake MacDonnell, which can be brilliantly pink when conditions align.
• Ceduna: Your first larger town in South Australia with supermarkets, bakeries, and oysters from nearby waters.

Optional side trips and niche gems:

• Eyre Bird Observatory near Caiguna: Birding nirvana and science history. Access by 4WD only, sandy track and steep descent. Book ahead and seek current track advice.
• Fraser Range Station near Norseman: Station stay amid granite outcrops and eucalypt woodland, popular with caravanners.
• Fowlers Bay near Ceduna: Calm waters, fishing, and seasonal whales. Accommodation and tours are available.
• Cactus Beach: A legendary surf spot for experts only. Seasonal access and local knowledge recommended.

Sample Itineraries

Choose a pace that suits your vehicle, travel style, and time frame.

1. Fast but fabulous: 3-day Nullarbor crossing

   • Day 1: Norseman to Caiguna or Cocklebiddy. Grab your 90 Mile Straight photo and settle in early to avoid dusk wildlife.
   • Day 2: Cocklebiddy to Border Village or Eucla. Pause at Madura Pass lookout and the Eucla Telegraph Station ruins.
   • Day 3: Eucla to Ceduna via Bunda Cliffs and Head of Bight. Aim for the whale centre if in season.

2. Balanced highlights: 5-day Nullarbor with must-see stops

   • Day 1: Norseman to Fraser Range Station. Slow start, station stay.
   • Day 2: Fraser Range to Cocklebiddy with Caiguna Blowhole en route. Consider a detour to the Eyre Bird Observatory with 4WD and pre-planning.
   • Day 3: Cocklebiddy to Eucla. Explore dunes and the telegraph station ruins late afternoon.
   • Day 4: Eucla to Nullarbor Roadhouse. Spend generous time at Bunda Cliffs lookouts.
   • Day 5: Nullarbor to Ceduna via Head of Bight. Detour to Penong’s windmills or Lake MacDonnell if conditions are right.

3. Immersive adventure: 7 to 10 days Perth to Adelaide

   • Days 1 to 2: Perth to Esperance with a full day at Cape Le Grand National Park. Hike Frenchman Peak, relax at Lucky Bay.
   • Day 3: Esperance to Norseman to Fraser Range Station.
   • Day 4: Fraser Range to Balladonia and Caiguna. Play a Nullarbor Links golf hole, visit the Skylab display.
   • Day 5: Caiguna to Madura or Mundrabilla with scenic stops.
   • Day 6: Mundrabilla to Eucla, then across the border to spend the night at Border Village or the Nullarbor Roadhouse.
   • Day 7: Whale watching at Head of Bight, then on to Penong or Ceduna.
   • Days 8 to 10: Ceduna to Adelaide with side trips to Coffin Bay for oysters, or the Eyre Peninsula if you have time.

Fuel, Food and Accommodation: Roadhouses Explained

Roadhouses are the heartbeat of the Eyre Highway. They keep you moving with fuel, meals, and a bed for the night. Expect clean motel-style rooms, simple but hearty bistro menus, caravan sites, and hot showers.

Common stops and typical spacing:

• Norseman
• Fraser Range Station
• Balladonia
• Caiguna
• Cocklebiddy
• Madura
• Mundrabilla
• Eucla
• Border Village
• Nullarbor Roadhouse
• Nundroo
• Penong
• Ceduna

Tips for a smooth run:

• Fuel range: Plan for 200 kilometres between stops and add a buffer. If your vehicle has a short range, carry a jerry can safely and legally.
• Operating hours: Many roadhouses are open long hours, some 24 hours for fuel. Kitchen hours vary. Check daily and plan your meals.
• Fuel types: Unleaded and diesel are the norm. LPG is limited. Ask ahead if you rely on LPG.
• Accommodation: Book ahead during school holidays, whale season, or long weekends. Pet policies vary by roadhouse.
• Food: Roadhouse food is honest and filling. Pack fresh snacks, fruit, and a small pantry. Remember quarantine rules when crossing the border.

How to Prepare Your Vehicle

Preparation turns a good trip into a great one. Service your vehicle before departure and focus on tyres, cooling, and electrics.

Pre-trip checklist:

• Full service: Oil, filters, brakes, belts, hoses, coolant, and battery check.
• Tyres: Good tread, correct load rating, and a matching spare. Two spares are wise for caravans and heavy vehicles. A puncture repair kit and 12V compressor are handy.
• Windscreen: Chips can spider quickly on gravel spray. Consider a windscreen inspection before you leave. Carry spare wiper blades and washer fluid.
• Fluids and spares: Engine oil, coolant, fuses, hose clamps, and basic tools.
• Water: At least 5 to 10 litres per person per day in the vehicle. Top up at roadhouses where possible.
• Navigation: Offline maps downloaded to your phone or GPS. Paper maps as backup are smart.
• Lighting: Check all headlights, tail lights, brake lights, and trailer lights.

Towing a caravan or camper:

• Weights: Keep within GVM, GCM, and tow limits. Heavy crosswinds can fatigue drivers and stress rigs.
• Tyre pressures: Set appropriate pressures for load. Recheck in the morning when cool.
• Bearings and brakes: Inspect and service before departure.
• Sway control: Anti-sway devices and correct weight distribution make long days more relaxing.

EVs on the Nullarbor:

• EV travel is increasingly feasible with planning. Charging options are evolving and may include a mix of DC fast chargers, destination chargers, and three-phase outlets at roadhouses and towns on both sides of the border.
• Check PlugShare and state motoring club websites for up-to-date charger locations, connector types, and access hours.
• Carry mobile charging adapters where appropriate, and allow additional time for charging. Be courteous when sharing limited infrastructure.

Safety, Rules and Responsible Driving

The Eyre Highway rewards steady, attentive driving.

• Speed limits: Generally 110 km per hour on open sections in WA and SA unless signed otherwise. Slow down for weather, light, and wildlife.
• Avoid night driving: Dusk and dawn are peak wildlife periods. Kangaroos and emus can appear suddenly. If you must drive early or late, reduce speed and increase vigilance.
• Road trains: These multi-trailer trucks have long stopping distances. When overtaking, wait for a long, clear straight, communicate with UHF if you have one, and commit decisively within the legal limit. Expect wind buffeting as you pass.
• Rest and fatigue: Use frequent rest areas. Swap drivers every two hours if possible. Stay hydrated and carry snacks that keep energy stable.
• Phone coverage: Assume black spots. A Telstra SIM has the best odds of reception at roadhouses. A UHF radio is useful for road updates. A PLB or satellite communicator is a good investment for remote travel.
• Weather and road conditions: Check Main Roads WA and SA authorities for closures or roadworks. Heavy rain can close access tracks and cause flooding on side roads.
• Wildlife ethics: Never feed wildlife. Keep dogs on leads and observe roadhouse pet rules. Respect seasonal closures for conservation.
• Drones: Observe CASA rules and park regulations, especially near whale nurseries and coastal cliffs.

Border Crossings, Permits and Quarantine

Biosecurity matters in Australia and both states enforce rules to protect agriculture and ecosystems.

• Entering South Australia: A quarantine checkpoint operates at Ceduna for west to east travellers. Prohibited items may include fresh fruit and vegetables, plants, and soil. Dispose of items at designated bins before the checkpoint or consume them beforehand.
• Entering Western Australia: A strict quarantine checkpoint near Eucla controls entry. Items such as fresh produce, honey, and some seeds are not permitted. Be ready to declare and surrender restricted goods. Fines apply for breaches.
• Plan your pantry: Buy fresh fruit and vegetables after the checkpoint in each state. Some roadhouses and towns have basic supplies. For recipes, think tinned, frozen, or pre-cooked meals before crossing.
• Permits and park access: Driving the Eyre Highway does not require special permits. For camping or off-highway exploration in Nullarbor National Park and Regional Reserve in SA, or on Aboriginal lands, seek current permits and advice. Respect closure signs and sacred sites.

Top Stops and Secret Detours

The Nullarbor packs in more variety than you might expect. These highlights deserve a place on your plan.

• Head of Bight Whale Centre: Elevated boardwalks and platforms with interpretive information and staff on hand in season. Exceptional visibility of mothers and calves along sheltered bays.
• Bunda Cliffs Lookouts: Multiple signed viewpoints between the border and Nullarbor Roadhouse. Stay behind barriers and avoid cliff edges.
• Eucla Telegraph Station: Half buried in sand, atmospheric late-afternoon light, and a short walk from the access track.
• Penong Windmill Museum: A surprisingly photogenic and educational stop that tells the story of outback water.
• Lake MacDonnell: When conditions align, the lake can appear startlingly pink from salt-loving algae. The adjacent road creates that famous contrasting blue-green channel. Colour varies with season and weather.
• Balladonia Skylab display: A slice of space history with local flavour.
• 90 Mile Straight sign: Capture the classic shot and keep your eyes peeled for wedge-tailed eagles.
• Eyre Bird Observatory: Incredible birdlife and scientific heritage for those with the right vehicle and time.
• Nullarbor Links: The world’s longest golf course stretches from Kalgoorlie to Ceduna with a hole at many stops. Collect scorecards and enjoy the novelty.

Note on off-highway sites:

• Some historic homesteads, caves, and coastal tracks are remote, require 4WD, and can be closed without notice for safety or cultural reasons. Check current conditions and permissions. Never enter caves or mine sites without proper authorisation and expertise.

What to Pack: Checklist for the Nullarbor

Pack smart to stay comfortable and self-reliant.

Essentials:

• Water: 5 to 10 litres per person per day, plus extra for the vehicle.
• Fuel buffer: A jerry can if your range is marginal. Store securely and observe safety rules.
• Food: Long-life basics, snacks, tea and coffee. Plan fresh produce around quarantine checkpoints.
• Clothing: Layers for cold nights and warm days, a windproof jacket, hat, sunglasses.
• Sun and insect protection: Sunscreen, lip balm, fly nets, and insect repellent.
• Navigation: Offline maps, paper backup, and a reliable charger for devices.
• Lighting: Headlamp and a spare torch.
• First aid: Comprehensive kit plus any personal medications.
• Tools and spares: Tyre repair kit, compressor, spare fuses, tape, cable ties, basic tools.
• Recovery items: Rated straps and shackles if you plan any off-highway detours.
• Comfort items: Camping chairs, shade awning, thermos, cooler or 12V fridge.
• Cash and small change: Some remote facilities or laundries prefer cash, and a few showers or washing machines are coin operated.
• Bin bags: Pack it in, pack it out. Leave no trace.

Nice-to-haves:

• Binoculars for whale and bird watching.
• Camera with extra batteries or power bank.
• UHF radio for traffic updates and talking to truck drivers when overtaking.
• Entertainment for kids: Audiobooks, activity packs, and a star chart for night skies.

Budgeting Your Trip

A little planning helps you avoid surprises.

Fuel:

• Expect higher prices at remote roadhouses compared to city bowsers. Prices fluctuate. Budget with a comfortable margin for a 1,200 kilometre Nullarbor segment and any detours.
• Example planning method: Calculate your vehicle’s litres per 100 kilometres, add 10 to 15 percent for headwinds or towing, then multiply by the distance. Use a conservative price per litre to estimate total fuel cost.

Accommodation:

• Motel rooms: Often mid-range in price for regional Australia. Expect to pay more in peak times.
• Cabins and rooms at roadhouses: Good for one-night stopovers, sometimes with family rooms.
• Powered caravan sites: Typically moderate cost per night.
• Unpowered sites and bush camps: Cheaper or low-cost, but check rules and restrictions for roadside camping.

Food:

• Roadhouse meals: Think burgers, schnitzel, steaks, and salads. Prices reflect supply costs and distance. Coffee and breakfast options are available in most stops.
• Self-catering: Reduces costs and gives you flexibility. Consider vacuum-sealed meals or pre-cooked dishes on either side of the border.

Attractions and fees:

• Head of Bight entry has a seasonal fee. It is worth every dollar in peak whale season.
• National park fees may apply for specific tracks or camping areas. Always check current rates and pay where required.

Savings tips:

• Travel outside school holidays for better availability.
• Book accommodation ahead during whale season.
• Keep tyres correctly inflated to save fuel and improve safety.
• Share driving to reduce fatigue and avoid last-minute, higher-priced stopovers.

Frequently Asked Questions

Is the road sealed the whole way?

• Yes. The Eyre Highway between Norseman and Ceduna is fully sealed. Some lookouts and side tracks are unsealed. Drive to conditions.

Do I need a 4WD to cross the Nullarbor?

• No. A well-maintained two-wheel drive vehicle is sufficient for the highway. A 4WD is recommended for certain detours and beach or track access.

Can I tow a caravan?

• Absolutely. The route is popular with caravanners. Check weights, service your rig, and watch crosswinds.

How far apart are fuel stops?

• Roughly every 150 to 200 kilometres, occasionally less. Carry a buffer and never run your tank down in hope of the next bowser.

What is the best time to cross the Nullarbor?

• April to October for comfort. Whale season is June to October if that is a priority.

Is it safe to drive solo?

• Yes, with sensible planning. Tell someone your route, carry water and emergency gear, and avoid driving at night. You will not be alone during daylight hours in peak season.

What about mobile reception and internet?

• Expect patchy coverage. Telstra generally performs best around roadhouses and towns. Download playlists, podcasts, and maps ahead of time.

Can I camp for free?

• There are rest areas and informal pull-offs that people use for overnight stops. Obey signs, respect private property, and leave no trace. Dedicated campgrounds at roadhouses offer facilities and are a good value.

Are drones allowed at the cliffs and whale areas?

• Restrictions apply near whale nurseries and in some park zones. Check CASA rules and park signage. When in doubt, do not fly.

Can I travel with my dog?

• Many roadhouses are pet friendly in outdoor areas and some caravan parks allow dogs. National parks may restrict pets. Keep dogs on leads and clean up.

What about EVs?

• Possible with planning. Charging options are expanding, but expect longer charge times and strategic stops. Use PlugShare or state networks for current information and call ahead to confirm availability.

Will I lose an hour at the border?

• Yes. You will change time zones between WA and SA. Some roadhouses in the border region use a local Central Western Time. Always check local opening times.

Respect for Country and Culture

The Nullarbor spans the lands of Traditional Owners, including Mirning, Ngadju, and other Aboriginal communities. Please respect cultural protocols and sacred sites, seek permits for off-highway access where required, and support local businesses and guides where possible. Travel softly. Leave wild places as you found them.

The Magic of the Nullarbor: Make It Happen

Crossing the Nullarbor is a gift you give yourself. It is the moment your headlights spear a dawn painted with pastel bands, the surprise of whales breaching below a pale limestone rim, the laugh you share with a roadhouse cook who has served every kind of traveller. With a solid plan, a well-prepared vehicle, and a flexible attitude, you will enjoy the best of the Eyre Highway without stress.

Here is your action list:

• Pick your season with the weather and whales in mind.
• Choose your direction and sketch a 3, 5, or 7 to 10 day itinerary.
• Service your vehicle and tyres, sort your spares, and download offline maps.
• Book key roadhouse stays, especially in peak times.
• Plan your pantry around quarantine checkpoints.
• Keep an eye on road and weather updates and travel in daylight.

The Nullarbor rewards those who take time to look beyond the bitumen. Roll to a stop at a cliff-top lookout and feel the ocean’s breath. Walk a few extra metres down a boardwalk and find yourself alone with whales and wind. Look up after dark and find more stars than you thought possible. This is Australia at full scale. When you are ready to cross it, the Nullarbor is ready to change the way you think about distance, silence, and the joy of the open road.