Cairns to Cooktown: Great Barrier Reef Drive & Bloomfield Track

If you dream of a road trip where the world’s oldest rainforest meets the world’s largest coral reef, the journey from Cairns to Cooktown is your golden ticket. This is a route that mixes palm-fringed beaches and reef-studded seas with heritage pubs, dramatic granite mountains, ancient Indigenous culture, and one of Australia’s most talked-about 4WD experiences, the Bloomfield Track. Whether you want a leisurely coastal cruise or a true off-grid adventure, this drive offers both in one unforgettable loop.

In this comprehensive guide, you will find the best time to go, route options, a ready-to-drive itinerary, safety and permit essentials, where to stay and eat, and insider tips to make the most of your Great Barrier Reef Drive to the Daintree and on to Cooktown via the Bloomfield Track.

Why This Road Trip Belongs On Your Bucket List

• Dual World Heritage: The only place on Earth where two UNESCO World Heritage areas meet, the Great Barrier Reef and the Wet Tropics Rainforest.
• The iconic coastal highway: The Great Barrier Reef Drive from Cairns to Port Douglas delivers tropical views and easy sightseeing, then the road narrows into the wild heart of the Daintree.
• Optional 4WD challenge: The Bloomfield Track between Cape Tribulation and Wujal Wujal is a notorious, exhilarating run over steep rainforest ranges with creek crossings and stunning coastal scenery.
• Culture and history: Encounter Kuku Yalanji Country around Mossman and the Daintree, then learn the story of Captain Cook and Guugu Yimithirr Country in Cooktown.
• Wildlife and wilderness: Crocodile-spotting cruises, cassowary habitat, hidden freshwater swimming holes, and remote beaches framed by jungle.

Trip Overview at a Glance

• Total distance one way via coast and Bloomfield Track: approximately 330 km, depending on stops and detours.
• Cairns to Port Douglas: 67 km, 1 to 1.5 hours.
• Port Douglas to Mossman Gorge: 20 km, around 25 minutes.
• Mossman to Daintree Ferry: around 40 minutes, allow for queue time.
• Daintree Ferry to Cape Tribulation: 35 km, 45 to 60 minutes, sealed road.
• Cape Tribulation to Wujal Wujal via the Bloomfield Track: around 33 km, 1.5 to 3 hours depending on conditions.
• Wujal Wujal to Cooktown: around 70 km, 1.5 hours on mostly sealed road.
• Return via the Mulligan Highway: Cooktown to Cairns around 330 km, 4 to 5.5 hours, fully sealed.

Vehicle and road conditions:

• Sealed roads from Cairns to Cape Tribulation.
• Bloomfield Track is designated 4WD only due to steep gradients, creek causeways, and changing conditions. Not suitable for caravans. Camper trailers only if properly equipped and driven by experienced operators.
• The inland Mulligan Highway is sealed and suitable for all vehicles.

Best Time to Go

• Dry season, May to October: Clearer skies, lower humidity, and better road conditions. Ideal for the Bloomfield Track. Peak visitor period is June to September.
• Shoulder months, April and November: Fewer crowds, hotter and more humid. Track may still be passable, but check conditions.
• Wet season, December to March: Heavy rain can cause closures, washouts, and slippery surfaces. The Bloomfield Track is often closed after significant rainfall. Expect steamy conditions and afternoon storms.

Beach swimming safety:

• Marine stingers are present from roughly November to May. At beaches north of the Daintree River there are no stinger nets. Choose reef trips for swimming or wear a full stinger suit when guided. Freshwater swimming holes may be safer, always obey signs.

Route Options: How to Get From Cairns to Cooktown

The Coastal Classic to Cape Tribulation

This section follows the Great Barrier Reef Drive from Cairns to Port Douglas and Mossman, then crosses the Daintree River by cable ferry into a different world of ancient rainforest. Highlights include:

• Rex Lookout between Cairns and Port Douglas for sweeping sea views.
• Mossman Gorge, part of Daintree National Park, with crystal-clear waters and rainforest boardwalks. Consider a guided Dreamtime Walk with Kuku Yalanji guides.
• Daintree River ferry crossing, a rite of passage into the rainforest north.
• Cow Bay, Thornton Beach, and Myall Beach, photogenic strands framed by jungle.
• Kulki Lookout at Cape Tribulation with coral sea views.
• Daintree Ice Cream Company and Floravilla for tropical fruit ice cream.

The coastal road is sealed all the way to Cape Tribulation, with short speed-limited sections and a few narrow bridges. Watch for cassowaries, especially around dawn and dusk.

The Bloomfield Track, Cape Tribulation to Wujal Wujal

This is the legendary 4WD stretch through the Wet Tropics from Cape Tribulation to the Bloomfield River at Wujal Wujal. Expect:

• Short, steep climbs and descents on the Cowie and Donovan Ranges, with gradients that can touch 33 percent.
• Creek causeways including Woobadda Creek and others that may flow after rain. Always assess water levels before crossing.
• Sections of concrete or sealed surface on the steepest grades to reduce erosion.
• Dense rainforest, occasional sea glimpses, and a true sense of remoteness.

The Bloomfield River crossing is via a bridge at Wujal Wujal, so there is no ferry. Allow time to stop at Bloomfield Falls when access is open, ideally with a local Indigenous guide.

The Sealed Inland Route, Wujal Wujal to Cooktown via Mulligan Highway

Once you rejoin the sealed road network near Ayton and Rossville, it is an easy run to Cooktown. Southbound, many travelers return to Cairns via the scenic and sealed Mulligan Highway. Inland highlights include:

• Black Mountain National Park, known as Kalkajaka, a striking field of black granite boulders wrapped in mythology and rare wildlife.
• The heritage Lion’s Den Hotel near Helenvale, an icon for cold drinks, hearty meals, and a classic outback vibe.
• Lakeland and the Palmer River Roadhouse on the way south.

Permits, Safety, and Essentials

• Daintree River Ferry: Operates daily, typically from early morning to late evening, with reduced or altered hours for maintenance. Fees apply for vehicles, with a discount for return tickets. Check current pricing and times before you go.
• Bloomfield Track status: Conditions change quickly. Check Douglas Shire and Cook Shire road reports and heed local advice. The track is closed after significant rain or for maintenance.
• 4WD requirement: The Bloomfield Track is defined as a 4WD road. A high-clearance 4WD with low range is the safest choice. Engage low gear on steep descents and climb with momentum, not speed.
• Wet weather caution: If it is raining heavily or has rained overnight, expect slippery clay surfaces and fast-flowing creeks. Never enter floodwaters. If in doubt, wait.
• Fuel and supplies: Fill up in Cairns, Port Douglas, and Mossman. There are limited supplies around Wonga Beach and Ayton. Cooktown has multiple fuel stations and supermarkets. Carry extra water and snacks.
• Communications: Mobile coverage drops out north of the Daintree ferry in many sections. Telstra has the best regional coverage. Download offline maps and carry a paper map for backup.
• Wildlife safety: Saltwater crocodiles inhabit coastal rivers, creeks, and beaches. Do not swim in estuaries, do not walk near the water’s edge, and obey safety signs. Watch for cassowaries on the road and keep your distance.
• Cultural respect: You are traveling through Kuku Yalanji Country and, farther north, Guugu Yimithirr Country. Seek permission and guidance for sacred sites, choose Indigenous-led tours, and follow all signage and closures.
• Camping permits: Required within national parks. Book online in advance for Daintree National Park sites and other managed campgrounds.

A Ready-to-Drive 3-Day Itinerary

Day 1: Cairns to Cape Tribulation

Distance: around 140 km

• Morning:

  1. Depart Cairns and stop at Rex Lookout for photos.
  2. Brunch in Port Douglas on Macrossan Street. If Sunday, browse the markets by the waterfront.
  3. Detour to Mossman Gorge. Park at the visitor centre and take the shuttle to the gorge. Walk the Rainforest Circuit and cool off at the designated areas if conditions allow, or join a Dreamtime Walk with Kuku Yalanji guides for cultural insight.

• Afternoon:

  1. Drive to the Daintree River and cross on the ferry. Keep your camera ready for that first canopy tunnel of green.
  2. Consider a Daintree River wildlife cruise before the ferry if time allows. It is one of the best and safest ways to see crocodiles.
  3. North of the ferry, pause at Alexandra Range Lookout for rainforest and reef views.
  4. Explore boardwalks such as Jindalba, Dubuji, or Marrdja. These flat, family-friendly trails reveal mangrove forests, fan palms, and prehistoric flora.

• Evening:

  1. Arrive at Cape Tribulation. Walk the short track to Kulki Lookout for sunset over the Coral Sea.
  2. Check into your rainforest stay.

Where to stay in the Daintree and Cape Tribulation:

• Cape Trib Beach House, absolute beachfront cabins in the rainforest.
• Ferntree Rainforest Lodge, resort-style with pools.
• Safari Lodge, cabins and camping among the trees.
• Daintree Ecolodge, boutique treehouse-style rooms south of the ferry near Daintree Village.
• Cape Tribulation Camping, beachside campsites under the stars.

Eat and drink:

• Mason’s Cafe for adventurous burgers and access to a signed freshwater swimming hole.
• Whet Restaurant at Cape Tribulation for modern Australian fare.
• Daintree Ice Cream Company for a seasonal tasting cup.

Sales tip: Book accommodation early in peak months. Properties are small and fill fast, especially during school holidays.

Day 2: Cape Tribulation to Cooktown via the Bloomfield Track

Distance: around 130 km, allow most of the day

• Morning:

  1. Check Bloomfield Track conditions before departure.
  2. North of Cape Tribulation, stop at Emmagen Creek. Upstream, away from the road, there are often croc-free freshwater pools. Always read current signs.
  3. Begin the Bloomfield Track. Use low gear for steep climbs on the Cowie and Donovan Ranges. Pause at safe turnouts for coastal glimpses and forest sounds.

• Midday:

  1. Wujal Wujal and Bloomfield Falls. Access may be restricted by Traditional Owners for cultural reasons. The safest and most respectful way to visit is on an Indigenous-guided tour, such as with a local family operator. When open, the short trail leads to a powerful waterfall that thunders in the wet and trickles in the dry.
  2. Continue to Ayton and Weary Bay for a quiet, windswept beach walk. Do not swim.
  3. Lunch at the Lion’s Den Hotel near Helenvale, a legendary stop to sign your name on the walls and soak up old-school Far North Queensland charm.

• Afternoon:

  1. Pull in at Black Mountain National Park for a view of the brooding boulder field and interpretive signage.
  2. Arrive in Cooktown and drive to Grassy Hill for 360-degree views over the Endeavour River, Coral Sea, and distant ranges. Sunset is spectacular.

• Evening:

  1. Dinner in Cooktown. Choose between waterfront pubs, the bowls club, or a local cafe on Charlotte Street.
  2. Overnight in Cooktown.

Where to stay in Cooktown:

• Sovereign Resort Hotel for a central pool and comfy rooms.
• River of Gold Motel or Seaview Motel for value and location.
• Cooktown Holiday Park for cabins and powered sites.
• Council-run waterfront camping areas are sometimes available in season, check locally.

Top experiences in Cooktown:

• James Cook Museum, set in a former convent, for Captain Cook history and Guugu Yimithirr stories.
• Cooktown Botanic Gardens and Nature’s Powerhouse, with a cafe and excellent interpretive displays.
• Finch Bay and Quarantine Bay for quiet beach walks.
• Fishing charters on the Endeavour River or reef trips in season.

Day 3: Cooktown to Cairns via the Mulligan Highway

Distance: around 330 km, 4 to 5.5 hours

• Morning in Cooktown:

  1. Coffee at Nature’s Powerhouse in the botanic gardens.
  2. Stroll Charlotte Street’s heritage buildings and the waterfront esplanade.

• Drive south:

  1. Stop again at Black Mountain if you missed it on the way in.
  2. Break at Lakeland for fuel and snacks.
  3. Palmer River Roadhouse for a stretch and a taste of goldfields history.

• Afternoon:

  1. Arrive back in Cairns in time to enjoy the Esplanade Lagoon, or continue south if your journey goes on.

Sales tip: If you prefer not to self-drive the Bloomfield Track, consider a small-group 4WD tour from Port Douglas or Cairns to Cooktown. You will get expert commentary, cultural experiences, and the comfort of a pro handling the tough bits.

Extend Your Trip: 5 to 7-Day Ideas

• Add a night in Port Douglas:

  • Sail to Low Isles for easy snorkelling with turtles.
  • Book a full-day outer reef trip to Agincourt Reef.
  • Browse the Sunday markets and dine along Macrossan Street.

• More time in the Daintree:

  • Join a guided night walk to spot nocturnal wildlife.
  • Book a Kuku Yalanji coastal walk and mud-crabbing experience near Cooya Beach.
  • Tackle more boardwalks and photography at dawn when the forest is most alive.

• Stay a night near Ayton or Rossville:

  • Slow down the Bloomfield stretch and wake to birdsong in the rainforest.
  • Explore Weary Bay at sunrise and star-filled skies at night.

• Extra day in Cooktown:

  • Charter a reef or river fishing trip.
  • Drive to Keatings Lagoon Conservation Park for birding.
  • Explore the shore platforms at low tide around Finch Bay.

• 4WD side quests for experienced drivers:

  • CREB Track, an older, steeper route between Daintree and Wujal Wujal. It is extremely challenging when wet and often closed. Attempt only in the dry season with high-clearance 4WD, recovery gear, and experience. Many rental contracts prohibit it.

What to Pack for the Tropical North

• Driving essentials:

  • High-clearance 4WD with low range for the Bloomfield Track.
  • Tyre pressure gauge and portable compressor to adjust for corrugations.
  • Recovery gear if traveling independently, such as a shovel, recovery boards, tow strap, and a rated recovery point.
  • Offline maps and a paper map backup.

• Personal gear:

  • Lightweight, breathable clothing with long sleeves for sun and insects.
  • Insect repellent, reef-safe sunscreen, hat, and sunglasses.
  • Reusable water bottles and a cooler with snacks.
  • Reef-safe stinger suit if you plan to join reef snorkelling.
  • Compact first aid kit and any personal medication.
  • Waterproof dry bags for electronics in case of tropical downpours.

• Camping kit if applicable:

  • National park camping permits printed or saved offline.
  • Headlamp, extra batteries, and biodegradable toiletries.

Renting a Car or Joining a Tour

• 4WD rentals:

  • Confirm in writing that your rental agreement allows travel on the Bloomfield Track. Some companies permit it, others do not.
  • Inspect tyres, ensure you have a full-size spare, and check recovery points.
  • Consider reducing your excess for peace of mind.
  • Drive to conditions, reduce tyre pressures on corrugations when appropriate, and re-inflate afterward.

• Tours:

  • Day and overnight tours run from Cairns and Port Douglas to the Daintree and Cape Tribulation, ideal if you are short on time or prefer not to drive.
  • 4WD Cooktown tours travel the Bloomfield Track north and the Mulligan Highway south, often including Bloomfield Falls, the Lion’s Den Hotel, Black Mountain National Park, and Cooktown’s key sights.
  • Ask about Indigenous-led components for a richer connection to Country.

Where to Eat and Drink Along the Way

• Cairns:

  • Waterfront dining along the Esplanade, night markets for casual bites, and countless cafes to fuel your early start.

• Port Douglas:

  • Macrossan Street restaurants, fresh seafood, and tropical cocktails. The Sunday markets on the foreshore are a local favourite.

• Daintree and Cape Tribulation:

  • Mason’s Cafe for burgers and a swim. Whet Restaurant for dinner. Try Daintree and Floravilla ice cream for locally grown fruit flavours.
  • Roadside stalls often sell bananas, pineapples, and tropical treats.

• Wujal Wujal, Ayton, Rossville:

  • Options are limited, so plan ahead. The Lion’s Den Hotel is your go-to for a hearty lunch or early dinner.

• Cooktown:

  • Waterfront pubs for classic Aussie meals, cafes for breakfast and coffee, and a range of options on Charlotte Street. For a garden setting, try Nature’s Powerhouse.

FAQs: Cairns to Cooktown and the Bloomfield Track

• Is the Bloomfield Track suitable for 2WD?

  • No. It is designated 4WD only due to steep gradients, creek causeways, and variable surfaces. In very dry conditions some AWD vehicles may attempt it, but this is not recommended and may breach rental agreements.

• How long does the Bloomfield Track take to drive?

  • The 33 km between Cape Tribulation and Wujal Wujal typically takes 1.5 to 3 hours, longer in the wet or if you stop often.

• Is the road sealed?

  • Cairns to Cape Tribulation is sealed. The Bloomfield Track has a mix of sealed sections, concrete slabs on steep grades, and unsealed sections that can be rough. North of Wujal Wujal toward Cooktown is mostly sealed.

• Do I need a permit for the Bloomfield Track?

  • No permit is required to drive the track. Camping in national parks requires a permit. Certain cultural sites or falls may be closed or accessible only on a guided tour.

• When does the Daintree Ferry operate and how much does it cost?

  • Operating hours are typically early morning to late evening, with occasional maintenance closures. Expect a fee per vehicle and a discount for return passes. Check official sources for current times and fares.

• Is there mobile phone reception?

  • Patchy north of the Daintree River and along the Bloomfield Track. Telstra provides the best regional coverage. Do not rely on streaming maps.

• Can I swim at the beaches?

  • It is not recommended due to marine stingers in season and crocodiles year-round in estuaries. Choose reef tours for safe ocean swims, and only use signed freshwater swimming holes.

• Are pets allowed?

  • Pets are not permitted in national parks like the Daintree. Some private accommodations accept pets south of the ferry, check policies in advance.

Responsible Travel and Cultural Respect

• Acknowledge Country: You travel through Kuku Yalanji lands around Mossman and the Daintree, and Guugu Yimithirr lands around Cooktown. Learn local protocols, book Indigenous-led tours, and listen to Traditional Owner guidance.
• Leave no trace: Pack out all rubbish, keep to formed tracks, and avoid disturbing wildlife.
• Drone etiquette: Observe park regulations, no-fly zones, and privacy. Seek permission where required.
• Drive kindly: Slow down for wildlife, give way on narrow bridges, and let locals pass on single-lane sections.
• Water safety: Assume crocodiles may be present in any coastal creek or river. Stay well back from the water’s edge and never feed wildlife.

Sample Costs and Budget Tips

• Daintree Ferry: Expect around AUD 40 to 50 return for a standard vehicle. Prices change, so check the official website.
• Fuel: Outback and regional prices can be higher than Cairns. Fill up in Mossman or Port Douglas before the ferry, and top up when you can.
• Accommodation:
  • Daintree and Cape Tribulation lodges and cabins from around AUD 180 to 400 per night in peak season.
  • Cooktown motels from around AUD 150 to 250 per night. Holiday parks offer cabins and powered sites at lower cost.
• Tours:
  • Daintree River crocodile cruises from around AUD 35 to 60 per adult.
  • Full-day reef trips from Port Douglas from around AUD 250 to 350 per adult.
  • 4WD Cooktown day or overnight tours vary widely, often AUD 300 to 800 depending on inclusions.
• Savings:
  • Travel in shoulder months for better rates.
  • Pre-book accommodation and tours in peak season to avoid last-minute premiums.
  • Self-cater some meals if you are camping or have a kitchenette.

Insider Tips for a Smoother Trip

• Start early from Cairns to enjoy calm morning seas and fewer cars on the coastal road.
• Plan your Daintree ferry crossing outside peak hours, typically mid-morning and mid-afternoon in high season, to shorten queue time.
• Keep camera gear handy. Wildlife moments pass quickly in the rainforest.
• Air down slightly on corrugated sections if you are experienced and have a compressor to re-inflate later.
• After rain, pause and watch another vehicle tackle a crossing before you do. Gauge depth and flow safely.
• Respect closures at Bloomfield Falls and any cultural sites. A guided visit often adds stories you will remember for life.

Conclusion: Drive the Meeting Place of Wonders

From the cafe-lined Esplanade of Cairns to the windswept headland of Cooktown, this route is a journey through Australia’s tropical spirit. The Great Barrier Reef Drive seduces with ocean views and resort towns. The Daintree hums with ancient life under fan palm canopies. The Bloomfield Track challenges and rewards with a sense of discovery you cannot get on a sealed highway. And Cooktown ties it all together with a deep story of exploration and living culture.

If you crave a road trip that feels both effortless and adventurous, map your way from Cairns to Cooktown via Cape Tribulation and the Bloomfield Track, then close the loop on the Mulligan Highway. Book your stays early, choose an Indigenous-guided experience, and set out with curiosity and respect. This is Far North Queensland at its most authentic, where rainforest meets reef and the road leads you to your next great story.